‘Every Culinary Artist Must Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.

Jennifer Clark
Jennifer Clark

Astrophysicist and science communicator passionate about making space accessible to all.

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